Victorian Lingerie Jewelry Pins

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Lingerie pins are sweet, little pins used to hold a proper lady’s undergarments in place. Often sold in pairs to combat each bra strap from a visible display of embarrassment. Since a Victorian lady would want something elegant, even for her undergarments, pins were often decorated with gemstones, pearls or decorative enameling. Used not only for bra support, they could often be found holding slips and other intimates. Never to be seen on the outside of a garment, of course! But first we must understand the history of undergarments, from corset to the modern day brassiere.

It is said that the corset was a direct result of Queen Catherine de’ Medici’s strict distaste of thick waistlines in her French court during the 1550s. She despised an ill figure and wanted only the hourglass figure to surround her. Corsets are known for slimming the body to conform to a fashionable silhouette. Historically a corset was made out of lace with rigid stays sewn around the lace to ensure a proper figure. The stays, or boning were often whalebone or reeds, and later metal was used. The undergarment was typically laced up the back, with help from a lady’s maid extreme force was needed to secure the garment in place.

During the 1700s, a casual corset evolved. A quilted waistcoat could be worn for more informal occasions, saving the stiff corset with stays for formal court appearances. As a woman’s corset was fading during this time, the man’s corset surged. Claiming that a corset could solve back pain, men began wearing corsets to help with body ailments.

While clothing silhouettes slimmed down so did the use of multiple undergarments. The need for crinolines, hoop skirts, and bustles were a thing of the past. In the late 1800s the dawn of the corset was diminishing. The role of women in society was quickly changing, women began entering the “man’s” world and the need for more flexible clothing grew. By the 1890s the first wave of feminism was in full swing. A corset prohibited a more active lifestyle and by the early 1900s was no longer en vogue. The term brassiere was first used in the 1893 publication of the Evening Herald in Syracuse, New York. It wasn’t until 1907 when Vogue magazine first published the term. Undergarments were the first to be modified because they could be changed without exposing the wearer to social ridicule.

By World War I the corset was nearly extinct. The metal that was once used for stays was now used for the war effort. A simple fabric bra and slip were common lady’s undergarments. Secret, hidden accessories were always needed regardless of which type of undergarment worn. Social etiquette dictated the need for lingerie pins, and garment clips, so as not to expose the unmentionable. By 1932 the brassiere was mass produced with elastic straps and standardized cup sizes. Clips and pins appeared on the outside of garments to hold sweater necklines.
 
As antique fashion etiquette is exposed, so shall its beautiful adornments be displayed and worn on the outside of current en vogue garments. Lingerie pins can be quite collectible in the current market. To shop for some of our Victorian jewelry, visit it us at NineCarolineAntiques.

Original Art Deco Artwork by Erté

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The sleek lines, unique shapes, and bold colors of Art Deco design are still eye-catching today, almost 100 years after the movement’s heyday. One of the most recognizable artists and designers of the Art Deco period may be Erté, who created breathtaking paintings, prints, costumes, and set designs. We are excited to feature two original gouache paintings by Erté: “Don Juan” and “Holeproof Hosiery XII”.   

Erté (1892-1990) was a Russian-born French artist. Born into a distinguished family, his given name was Roman Petrovich Tyrtov. Despite the wishes of his father, an admiral in the Russian fleet, and his family’s expectations for him to become a naval officer, he followed his dream to become an artist, moved to Paris, and took the pseudonym Erté to avoid disgracing his family. In Paris Erté worked as a designer for the renowned French couturier Paul Poiret from 1913 to 1914. In 1915, Erté contracted with Harper’s Bazaar magazine where he started designing costumes and stage sets. From 1915 to 1937, Erté designed over 200 covers for Harper’s Bazaar. Other notable works created by Erté were published on the covers of magazines such as London News, Cosmopolitan, Ladies’ Home Journal, and Vogue. He was well known for his elegant fashion designs which captured the spirit of the Art Deco period; his earliest success was designing costumes for the French dancer Gaby Deslys. After gaining fame in Paris, Erté left for Hollywood to design costumes and sets for the silent film Paris. However, the film faced many delays and, to keep him busy, the studio also had Erté work on sets for movies such as Ben-Hur, The Mystic, The Comedian, Time, and Dance Madness.

One of our original featured works of Erté, the 1930 gouache painting “Don Juan”, is a great example of his high Art Deco style. The well-known literary character was a wealthy man who devoted his life to the act of charming women. In Erté’s painting, Don Juan is appropriately depicted surrounded by hearts, with stylized women’s silhouettes at either side. The use of contrasting colors and difference of style between the green women and the passionate red color of Don Juan, brings the viewers eyes inward and onto the character of Don Juan and his influential personality, so artistically depicted in this painting.

Our second original featured artwork by Erté is a gouache painting titled “Holeproof Hosiery.” This mysterious and evocative painting depicts various opera glasses reflecting light, one reflecting the white elegant figure of a ballerina. The orange reflecting light contrasts with the purple of the background and the white ballerina figure at the center stands gracefully within the orange, capturing the eye. Erté was known to have created artwork for advertising, and this piece may have been for such a purpose; however, this particular painting remains something of a beautiful mystery.

Both of these original gouache paintings are striking examples of Erté’s distinct style, and each is accompanied by a Certificate of Authenticity. Check them out in our store by clicking here!

Say “Hello” to Antique Text Messages: Calling Cards, Embellished Cases & Entryway Baskets

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Imagine a world where electronics ceased to exist and the handwritten letter was your main source of correspondence. It was not so long ago that this world existed. Unfortunately it is a pastime that many younger generations are clueless to understand. Not but one hundred years ago did society communicate through letters, cards, or simply word of mouth. During this era the calling card was like receiving a text, a way of saying “hello” to friends, family and loved ones. Although the calling card is now obsolete, beautiful ornate cases that once housed these cards are prized possessions and are collected by antique enthusiasts.

The custom of carrying a calling card began in the early 1800’s in France. It was a popular trend among high society and soon spread throughout Europe and the United States. Each card was hand written, typically by talented calligraphers and then embellished by the bearer. Just as the cards themselves were decorative works of art so were the carrying cases. Many card cases were often small, just bigger than the cards to ensure ease of transport. Cases would hang from chatelaine belts or be tucked away in evening bags. Historically, cases were made out of silver, mother of pearl, bone, ivory and any other materials that were en vogue.

These small elegant portfolios were carried by both men and women. A man's case was often less decorated and plainly designed because they were not as visible to the crowd. A simple design is not to disregard the man’s calling card which was often used to request a dance, or show interest in courting a young woman. A social endeavor that was necessary if you were outside the arranged marriages custom. However, it was the women’s cases that had engraved, embossed, carved, or even inlaid details. These are the cases that many collectors seek. Everything from floral bouquets, to figural designs adorned these cases.

It was proper etiquette to leave a card at the house you were visiting. Making social calls was a ritual, it was way to communicate. Every detail about the ritual was elaborate. The cards, the cases, even the trays or baskets where they were left in the entrance of the visiting home. The act of leaving a card was not only for the bearer of the card announcing their intent, it was also a way for other visitors to see who the household entertained at any given time, an act of social status.

The trend continued into the early 1900’s, although less popular by that time due to the invention of the typewriter and other printing devices. The once fashionable card soon turned into a businessman’s identification card. Although we carry business cards today they are not as elaborate, nor are they used in the same fashion. To blossom a romance or to request a dance are not traditional reasons to leave a business card in the 21st century. Collectors of calling card cases seek only the very best, most ornate, most unique designs found. Antique enthusiasts have been found using the cases for carrying modern day business cards. A case used today is a unique fashion statement with a sound historic social past.

Discover our fine examples of antique calling card cases, baskets, trays and accessories at our shop: NineCarolineAntiques!

Lucky Charms: Jewelry That Protects and Attracts

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Are you feeling lucky? Lucky charms have used to ward off evil for centuries.

Finding a heads up penny, wearing an unwashed jersey, a hat worn upside down and backwards to rally for the losing team are all ways to bring good luck. Lucky trinkets have been worn for centuries, including the cornicello horn, the four leaf clover, the Hamsa, the ladybug and the horseshoe.

 
Italian Horn

In ancient Greek and Roman mythology the horn signified strength, power and abundance. It is said to bring future wealth and prosperity to those who wear a horn. Animal horns are believed to have great power over the evil eye. In Italy a cornicello, or cornetto which translates to “little horn” or “hornlet”, is a charm worn to protect against the evil-eye curse. A curse cast by a malicious glare to cast misfortune or injury. Originally the cornicello looked like a twisted horn, resembling the African eland or antelope. As the tradition continued, Italians also refer to the cornicello as a chili pepper due to the abundance of peppers in Calabria.

 

4 Leaf Clover

A person who finds a four leaf clover is said to have good luck. The leaves symbolize one for faith, the second for hope, the third for love and the fourth for luck. In the Irish tradition the three leaf clover is called a shamrock and it represents the Holy Trinity. If a four leaf shamrock is found by an Irishman the fourth leaf represents God’s Grace, a truly lucky person. A four leaf clover is also said to symbolize fame, wealth, love and health.

 
Hamsa, or the Hand of Fatima

The Hamsa is a hand shaped amulet thought to offer protection to the bearer. In the Muslim culture the hand is a symbol of Fatima the favored daughter of the prophet Muhammad. Each finger represents faith, prayer, pilgrimage, charity and fasting. In Europe the hand held up was said to protect one against the evil eye. In the Jewish community the Hamsa is a reminder to use your five senses to praise God. The hand of Fatima is used in the Algerian emblem and is a symbol of a new era.

Ladybug

To kill a ladybug is said to bring bad luck. Although the ladybug is a North American insect it transcends across many cultures. Ladybugs are used in farming as an organic pesticide. During the Middle Ages many European Christian societies referenced the ladybug’s spots to the Seven Sorrows of Mary. It is said that when the farmers prayed to the Virgin Mary to protect their crop that ladybugs appeared to defend, commonly called “Beetles of our Lady”. The name evolved into ladybugs. In many cultures the ladybug is used to reference Feng Shui, optimizing the flow of energy through space. When a ladybug lands on a person or thing it will be replaced with an improved version.

 

 
Horseshoe

Horseshoes are hung over doorways in many homes to protect and attract good fortune for those who reside there. When a horseshoe is hung pointing upwards it will hold luck inside forever. The horseshoe symbol has been associated with good luck for centuries. Blacksmiths were thought to have magical powers because of their ability to weld iron with elemental fire. In ancient Greece, horseshoes symbolized the moon which was regarded as a symbol of fertility. Simplistically speaking, horseshoes are designed to protect a horse's hoof from wear. The mere existence of a horseshoe is to protect.

Lucky charms can be very collectible in today’s market. Jewelry trinkets are wonderful examples of these symbols and can be found at our store. To shop for some of our lucky charms, click here.

The 1652 NE Threepence Silver Coin

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Today we take a look at the fascinating 1652 NE Threepence silvercoin.

In 1652, the first metallic currency was struck in England’s American colonies. During this time period, the American colonies were suffering from a currency shortage. The English government had banned the export of its silver coins to its own colonies. England was experiencing a coin shortage itself and wanted to keep its small coin denominations at home, but the government also believed that the colonies should be sending wealth to England (certainly not the other way around). Even if the English government had wanted to send coins to the colonies, they were unable to do so until they had solved their own currency problems. Of the coins in circulation in the colonies, many were counterfeits. The local businesses struggled to maintain a healthy economy, particularly in bustling port towns like Boston which was already engaging in a healthy import/export trade by the mid 1600s.

The colony of Massachusetts Bay, laboring under the small change coin shortage, resolved to solve the problem on its own. Without bothering to ask approval from the English government, the General Court of Massachusetts Bay charged silversmiths John Hull and Robert Sanderson to create shilling, sixpence, and threepence coins. 

The first coins struck in America were made by an illicit mint in Boston, Massachusetts. The coins were struck in silver and are known as the “NE” or “New England” type coins. The coins were struck for only three months in 1652 and are exceedingly rare. The coins were simple, irregularly shaped discs with no decoration or date. One side bore the punched initials of “NE” for New England, while the reverse bore the denomination on the reverse in Roman numerals (III for threepence, VI for sixpence, XII for shilling). 

Only one specimen of the 1652 NE Threepence coin is known to exist, and is held in the collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society, though every denomination of the surviving 1652 New England coins is a genuine rarity. 

We recently came across an interesting 19thcentury facsimile coin designed after the extraordinarily rare 1652 New England Threepence. The 1652 NE coins were already known and valued as scarce by this time. In the mid 19^th century, the hobby of coin collecting exploded into wild popularity. The surge in interest in coins led to the eternal collector’s dilemma: there are only a very limited number of rare coins, and passionate collectors may never see, let alone own, the most interesting and exciting examples in their field of interest. While counterfeiting coins for use as currency has existed as long as currency has itself, the coin collecting boom now saw an increase in the creation of facsimiles of rare and desirable coins. Some of these facsimiles were honestly sold as interesting copies for the passionate and knowledgeable collector who simply wanted a version of a rarity for his own enjoyment. However, some unscrupulous people would sell the facsimiles as authentic, duping their trusting customers. 

The 1652 NE Threepence coin is a fascinating glimpse into the history of the American colonies. Our version of this coin can be found in our store. 

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